Dating buttons warren tice
Sort the buttons by material and store them in breathable (not airtight) containers. It seems everyone would love their buttons to be of this material, even though it is primarily the realistic bakelite buttons that have the value. An alternative is to make a small amount of paste out of comet or any cleaning powder.Metal and some older plastics, particuarly celluloid, do not mix well. Dampen a white cloth ..some paste.polish in an unobtrusive spot on the button.The oldest buttons I own are from the 18th century, one of which is from the French revolution and has a catgut shank. Under magnification you will find the tiny dots that make up the image. Fasteners for Cuffs, shirtwaists, vests and collars.Start sifting through the button boxes of the past and you may find some treasures worth saving or selling. Uniform Buttons: These can include Military and Non Military.Of these types of image buttons, it seems those of animals were made in quantity. From the likely, as in a bunny rabbit, to the unlikely. Favored subjects, as in the cat, for example, are not so plentiful as you might think. Of course my buttoning ventures have helped my own button collection grow as well. Picture Buttons: Buttons having designs other than geometric. As actual buttons, as the base of buttons called steel cups, where other materials may be included and as trim.I’’ve been a member of The California State Button Society for about 15 years. Mosaic: Buttons with tiny bits of glass in the center forming a picture. Mostly Metal and produced in quantity from 1880 to 1900. It is most often seen as facets that resemble marcasite.
Garter buttons with the cute little Flapper faces are fabric. The reason for this is that they will continue to deteriorate and will cause damage to your good celluloid buttons as well as other buttons, especially metal. You can also compare the material to plastic by the 'tooth tap test'.Other club members have contributed much to my growing knowledge of buttons. Paperweight: Buttons with a 'setup' and a cap of clear glass to give depth. Plastic: Moldable materials almost exclusively synthetic. Studio: Buttons made for collectors and not for the 'trade' where they would be marketed to the public at large.Some of the most interesting buttons I have collected include a hand-painted miniature on Ivory and some Enameled, Sterling, Arts and Crafts period buttons. Studs: Button look-likes with a post and disk on the reverse.You can definately feel a difference in the temperature and hardness of glass or plastics.
Whatever your collecting passion, it's quite likely that you would be able to add to it by including buttons.Grandma's buttons may be dusty and smelly but washing them is not always an option, if anything polish them with a non abrasive cloth. Black glass imitates it but is much heavier and glossier. There are many types from Transportation to Scouting. Victorian: A term which could loosely apply to buttons made from 1850 to 1900 Bakelite does not have a huge variety of shanks.