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The Germans were expelled; Russians were moved in and the city and the region were named after one of Stalin’s nastier henchmen, Kalinin. Though part of Russia, Kaliningrad is hundreds of miles away from Russia proper.While Lithuania, to the north, was part of the Soviet Union, and Poland, to the south, was firmly entrenched in the Warsaw Pact, that didn’t matter.Though it has its softer and funkier sides (the Twelve Stulyev bar was one; the Universal nightclub – a babushka-free zone full of beautiful young things – was another), it is strictly for the intrepid.But it rewards those that do come with a unique travel experience.Visitors to Kaliningrad – previously forbidden – can now enjoy glimpses of that rich German legacy.The city boasts its own Brandenburg Gate (albeit a much smaller model than the one in Berlin); and the cathedral – thanks primarily to funds from Germany – has been rebuilt.
Further reading Baltic Capitals: Tallinn, Riga, Vilnius and Kaliningrad by Neil Taylor (Bradt, £14.99).
All of which makes it an extremely interesting place to visit. Not even the most ardent fan would claim that compared with some of the other Hanseatic League cities – Lübeck, Gdansk, Riga – Kaliningrad is anything to write home about.
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